Ashley Burke, Slovenia 2010

The Slovenska Planinska Pot (the Slovenian High Route)

Stages 6 and 7


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Map of Stages 6 and 7

Stages 6 and 7- The Julian Alps - Triglav, Jalovec and the Jubilee Route

8 - 13 Jul 2010

Like Stage 3, Stage 6 was a true mountain stage and very challenging and difficult in places. It included a climb of Triglav, Slovenia's highest mountain, and covered some high terrain in the heart of the Triglavski Narodni Park. The most challenging day of all, and the most technically difficult of the entire Transverzala, was the final day of Stage 6 - the Jubilee Route. This was a long, high, steep and severely exposed crossing from Pogačnikov dom to the peak of Prisojnik (2547m) involving some full on via ferrata and much steep climbing besides. A harness and self belay kit is essential for the Jubilee Route, and fortunately we were carrying the bare minimum of this equipment with us, so were able to complete the Jubilee Route successfully, albeit fearfully.

As well as high mountain excitement, Stage 6 includes some very spectacular walking along trails that were built in World War 1, as this area was a front between the Austro-Hungarian empire and the Italians during the First World War. The gentle grades of this army trail winding its way through the mountains provided a respite from the steep and hard climbing among the jagged limestone that characterised much of this stage.

Unfortunately Triglav and the surrounding area is very popular among Slovenians and it seems that on a fine summer's day the entire population of the country gravitates towards the luring summit of Triglav. There is a hut at the base of Triglav called Triglavski dom that is so huge that the word "hut" is not appropriate. It is more like a sprawling dining and accommodation complex complete with helipad and bustling restaurant, packed with hundreds of people. The exposed route from here to the summit of Triglav, though well protected with steel cable, was choked with people.

Fortunately we didn't spend a night in Triglavski dom but we went to Dom Planinka instead. Although this is smaller and less ostentatious than Triglavski Dom it is nevertheless large in its own right, and when we were there it was packed to the rafters with throngs of noisy people. There was no hope of making an advance booking, this hut had been booked out for months in advance. We were forced to endure a sleepless night along with several other people on the dining room floor. Triglav it seems, is a very popular place. It was a great relief that for the following night we reached Pogačnikov dom which was still very busy and full but we nevertheless were able to obtain a space in a shared dorm. It was on the following day that we completed the Jubilee Route.

Stage 7 was an excellent overnight addendum to Stage 6, whereby the spectacular summit of Jalovec was climbed, and we spent a night in the small hut called Zavetišce pod Špickom on the way. All in all, Stages 6 and 7 take in the best of the Julian Alps and Triglavski Narodni Park.

Here was our itinerary:

8 Jul 2010	Leaving Mojstrana after lunch we walked up the beautiful Vrata valley to Aljažev dom (1015m). The Vrata Valley features a waterfall - rare in these limestone mountains. Set deep in the valley among forest, Aljažev dom was busy but comfortable.
9 Jul 2010	A steep climb out of the Vrata Valley by means of a route called Prag. The crux of this route is a bulk of rock, scaled with fixed cables and rungs. Lunch at Dom Valentina Staniča, then to the overcrowded Triglavski dom. Climbed Triglav (2864m) and then descended steeply to Dom Planika (2401m). Miserable night in this noisy and overcrowded hut.
10 Jul 2010	A perfect hot summer's day. Walked to Koča na Doliču and then followed a WWI army road to the pass of Luknja. Climbed Bovški Gamsovec (2392m) then some very steep and exposed descending towards Pogačnikov dom. Reached Pogačnikov dom (2050m) aftera convoluted route through limestone karst country. Very thirsty. Fortunately Pogačnikov dom has an abundant supply of good drinking water drawn from a nearby alpine lake.
11 Jul 2010	Today was the longest and hardest of the entire Slovenska Planinska Pot in which we completed the Jubilee route. Climbed Razor (2601m) then onto the Jubilee Route and thence to the summit of Prisojnik (2547m). From here it was a long descent with some more exposed scrambling to the road pass of Vršič. We stayed at Poštarski dom (1688m), a very pleasant dom with good beds and much needed hot showers!
12 Jul 2010	There was a regular bus service from Vršič to Kranjska Gora so we left our gear at Poštarski dom and went down to Kranjska Gora to restock at the supermarket there. We returned to Poštarski dom for lunch and then started on Stage 7, climbing steadily to Zavetišce pod Špickom (2064m), a relatively small hut where we spent the night.
13 Jul 2010	In high humidity with early cloud build-up we climbed Jalovec (2645m) and then returned to Zavetišce pod Špickom. We then descended into forest, by now it was a hot summer afternoon, and we finally reached the tiny hamlet of Trenta. Here we found a very comfortable apartment where we spent 2 nights before embarking on Stage 8.
14 Jul 2010	On our rest day in Trenta we took a bus to Bovec to stock up at the local supermarket then returned to our apartment in Trenta. We enjoyed a swim in the Soča river.

Below are the photos from Stages 6 and 7.

Stage 6

	Waterfall in the Vrata valley. This is called Slap Peričnik.
	This photo shows our route out of the Vrata Valley to Triglav. This route is steep and exposed in places, with some protected sections.
	Here is one of the protected sections on the climb out of the Vrata valley.
	After the steep climb out of the Vrata Valley there is some relatively level walking. This is between Dom Valentina Staniča and Triglavski dom.
	Here is the sprawling and overcrowded Triglavski dom. Triglav is behind, you climb directly up the ridge from the hut. The entire route is protected with steel cables, spikes and rungs.
	On ths ridge heading towards Triglav. The summit of Triglav can be seen with a bank of cloud to the left.
	Some climbers descend the ridge off Triglav. This photo is taken from the summit.
	Climbers resting on the ridge.
	Here is Dom Planinka. It looks quiet from the outside but it is crowded and noisy on the inside.
	The serenity of the scenery from outside Dom Planika are in contrast to the human hell inside this hut.
	People coming and going from Dom Planika.
	Sheep graze outside Dom Planika.
	Evening views from Dom Planika (2401m).
	Kendy on the WWI trail beyond Koča na Doliču.
	Kendy on the WWI trail beyond Koča na Doliču.
	Here is the WW1 army road, amazingly hewn into the mountainside.
	A lot of zig-zagging down and then up again.
	Evening views from Pogačnikov dom.
	Looking towards Trenta from Pogačnikov dom.
	Evening views from Pogačnikov dom.
	Looking towards Trenta from Pogačnikov dom.
	From Pogačnikov dom we make an early start, heading towards the summit of Razor. This is looking back towards Pogačnikov dom with Triglav in the background.

The Jubilee Route

	The Jubilee route starts easily enough with some steep traversing across limestone cliff, something we were well accustomed to by now!
	Things rapidly get more interesting with this very steep and exposed chute with cables and pegs. Getting up this with our bulky packs was difficult.
	This is the crux of the Jubilee route and the hardest single pitch of the entire Slovenska Planinska Pot. This photo is taken vertically downwards, Kendy is climbing a sheer 30m high vertical cliff face using the cable and spikes. For this section a harness with a sling and carabiner clipped into the cable is the essential bare minimum climbing equipment required.
	Soon after the crux is this amazing cavern which is in effect a tunnel crossing from one side of the steep ridge to the other. The Jubilee route come through this tunnel to cross the ridge and continues on the other side.
	There is at least an hour more of exposed traversing and climbing before the summit of Prisojnik is reached.You can see the route in this photo, it crosses the two snowdrifts in the background and continues around the steep mountainside.

Stage 7

	Morning views from Poštarski dom (1688m) near the road pass of Vršič.
	Morning views from Poštarski dom (1688m) near the road pass of Vršič.
	Morning views from Poštarski dom (1688m) near the road pass of Vršič.
	Views from near the summit of Jalovec (2645m).
	Views from near the summit of Jalovec (2645m).
	Views from near the summit of Jalovec (2645m).
	Views from near the summit of Jalovec (2645m).

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Page created 26 Sep 2010, last updated 14 Oct 2010.


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