Peru 2007 - Highlights


All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2007. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.

Peru 2007 Page

View from the summit of Huascarán, 6768m (22 205 ft)


Highlight 1 of 3 - Huascarán Climbing Expedition

23-28 Jul 2007

Huascarán, at 6768m (22 205 feet) is the highest mountain in Peru and the highest tropical mountain in the world. In late July 2007 I joined a Peruvian Andes Adventures expedition to climb this mountain. The trip took 6 days, and involved some challenging snow and ice climbing. For me, this trip was one of the highlights of my life. It was a true climbing adventure with spectacular mountain scenery, some technical climbing challenges, and a great group of climbing companions and crew.

The trip was ably led by Eli Morales of Peruvian Andes Adventures. I was one of 4 clients, the others being Carl, Adam and Jeff. Apart from Eli, our leader, we were accompanied to the summit by guides Saul, Chato and Cesar. A porter, Urbano, accompanied us as far as Camp 2, and Fernando looked after things at base camp while we were on the mountain.

One of the most striking things about the climb was being in an environment of nothing but ice and snow. For more than 2 days there was not a single rock or living thing in our surroundings apart from ourselves. We slept on the ice (or tried to), we climbed on it, we fixed our rope to it, we even melted it so that we could drink it. And all of this within 9 degrees of the equator!. It was a totally amazing experience.

I hope you enjoy the photos from this incredible trip. See below.

Base camp at 4250m (13 944 ft). We hiked to here on the first day, our equipment and food having been carried by donkeys.


On the second day we climbed from base camp to Camp 1, and the first stage of this climb involved ascending smooth rock slabs.

The last part of the ascent to Camp 1 was on snow. For now the going was gentle and there was no need for rope or ice axe.
Here are our tents established at Camp 1, altitude 5100m (16 732 ft).
Sunset among the ice fields at Camp 1.
The ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 started at about 6:30am while the mountain was still in shadow. You can see some tents at Camp 1 in the top right hand corner of the photo.
Today's ascent was steep in places, and we needed to rope up and use ice axe and crampons for climbing. In the background you can see the shadow of Huascarán.
This is one of the steeper pitches between Camp 1 and Camp 2.
Myself at Camp 2. Altitude 5900m (19 357 ft).
Summit day! on summit day we started climbing at 1am when it was completely dark. By the time day broke, we were on the uppermost slopes of the mountain. This is the scene from high on the mountain at about 7:30am.
Early morning views from high on the slopes of Huascarán.
The final steps to the summit are on gentle slopes. It is very slow going here due to the high altitude.
The views from the summit are amazing.
Views from the summit.
Myself on the summit of Huascarán at 6768m (22 205 feet)

Our entire team on the summit of Huascarán.

From left: Ashley, Adam, Carl, Jeff, Chato, Eli, Saul, Cesar.

To descend from the summit we had to abseil (rappel) several times. We had climbed this section during the night.
This is the bottom of one of the long abseils. You can see the tracks we made when climbing in the small hours of the morning, snaking their way steeply up the mountain.
Another long abseil (rappel) down a near vertical snow slope. You can see the tracks we made when climbing up this during the night.
Abseiling among the incredible ice seracs and crevasses.
Descent from Camp 2 to Camp 1 involved some more careful descending on the rope.
Downclimbing between Camp 2 and Camp 1.
One of the steepest pitches between Camp 2 and Camp 1.
Beautiful but potentially hazardous crevasses on the route from Camp 2 to Camp 1.
Another long abseil.




All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2007. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.

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