Day 1 - 19 Sep 1999

We arrived in Sonnamarg by 4WD from Kargil and waited for Manzoor who was coming up from Srinagar. In Sonnamarg Manzoor and our guides hired ponymen and organised the gear for our trekking into the Kashmir lakes.

This view is taken from the village of Sonnamarg and here it is evident how incredibly different Kashmir is from Ladakh. Instead of the stark alpine desert landscapes of Ladakh, Kashmir is lush and green, with richly forested valleys and mountain mist.

Day 1 - 19 Sep 1999

Just outside Sonnamarg we start our trek by crossing this river. The architecture in Kashmir is different too, as evidenced by these houses.

Day 2 - 20 Sep 1999

How differerent from Ladakh! We climbed up this valley towards the Kashmir lakes. It reminded us more of the European Alps than northern India.

Day 2 - 20 Sep 1999

Kendy climbs up the valley side on our trek towards the Kashmir lakes.

There was a strong military presence in this area and in several places we had to stop at army camps to present our passports.

Day 3 - 21 Sep 1999

We camped in the valley in this photo and today did a side trip to climb a nearby peak.

Day 3 - 21 Sep 1999

On the side trip to climb an unnamed peak there was a small section of exposed walking.

Day 4 - 22 Sep 1999

Another side trip to this vantage point from which excellent views of the Kashmir lakes were had. We spent the next 4 nights camped at the farthest lake in this photo.

Day 4-5 - 22-23 Sep 1999

We spent 4 nights camped at the Kashmir Lakes and did day trips to explore the surrounding area.

Day 4-5 - 22-23 Sep 1999

At our camp site Afzul and Shoga caught fresh trout by hand at the outlet of one of the lakes.

Day 6 - 24 Sep 1999

Today was a rainy day until late afternoon when it cleared, revealing a fresh dusting of snow on the nearby peaks.

Day 6 - 24 Sep 1999

Today was a rainy day until late afternoon when it cleared, revealing a fresh dusting of snow on the nearby peaks.

Day 6 - 24 Sep 1999

Today was a rainy day until late afternoon when it cleared, revealing a fresh dusting of snow on the nearby peaks.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

Early morning reflections on the Kashmir lakes. I had to get up very early in the morning for these photos, any later and the wind picks up, destroying the reflections.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

Early morning reflections on the lake near our camp.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

Early morning reflections on the lake near our camp.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

Today we did a day trip high onto the watershed above the lakes and gained these excellent views intothe disputed territories between India and Pakistan.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

We followed this ridge which was the watershed for the lakes area.

Day 7 - 25 Sep 1999

Our ponymen took us on the walk today and here they are enjoying a break from the walking.

Day 8 - 26 Sep 1999

Today we began the trek back to Sonnamarg via a higher route than the way we had come in.

Day 9 - 27 Sep 1999

Our last day of trekking. We took a high route back to Sonnamarg and this offered some last great views down into the main valley of the Sind River, through which the main road between Srinagar and Leh travels.

Day 9 - 27 Sep 1999

Our last day of trekking and final views into the main valley before heading into Srinagar.

Day 10 - 28 Sep 1999

Srinagar.

Srinagar is a magical place. We stayed on a house boad on the tranquil Dal Lake.

Day 10 - 28 Sep 1999

Shops and houses on Dal Lake, Srinagar.

Day 11 - 29 Sep 1999

Our last morning on Dal Lake, Srinagar.

Day 11 - 29 Sep 1999

A shikara on Dal Lake, Srinagar.