17 Aug 1999

This is the view from Rohtang La (3955m) on the road between Manali and Darcha. We stopped here for lunch after a long drive by 4WD from Delhi.

From here it is a further half a day of driving along tortuous windy roads to Darcha, the starting point of our trek.

Day 1 - 19 Aug 1999

On the first day of our trek from Darcha we followed this valley upstream towards Shingo La. The route crossed this deep cataract on a narrow wooden bridge. Our mules were not happy about crossing this bridge!

Later this day in this very valley our camp was attacked by people from a village near this bridge. See the Kashmir page for details.

Day 2 - 20 Aug 1999

The approach to Shingo La, involves a long trek up this valley strewn with Morraine. Shingo La is at an altitude of about 5100m.

Day 2 - 20 Aug 1999

Our mules coming up the valley towards Shingo La. Here we look back down the valley that we had been climbing up.

The altitude of Shingo La is about 5100m.

Day 2 - 20 Aug 1999

We crossed this bridge and then climbed steeply up to Shingo La base camp where we camped that night. We climbed over Shingo La on the following day, 21 August.

Day 4 - 22 Aug 1999

After Shingo La we descended a wide grassy valley and out of this valley rises this collosus of rock. This feature dominated the scenery for the day after crossing Shingo La.

Day 4 - 22 Aug 1999

Looking back up the valley towards Shingo La. You can still see that huge rocky mountain in the centre of the photo.

Day 5 - 23 Aug 1999

The route continues down the valley, passing through cultivated country and numerous stupas like this one.

Day 6 - 24 Aug 1999

On Day 6 the route continued down the valley to the village of Purni. This is the view from a hill above Purni, of the confluence of two large rivers.

Day 7 - 25 Aug 1999

Today we did a day trip up to the spectacular monastery complex of Phugtul which is seemingly out of a fantasy world, perched as it is in such a rugged position up a narrow gorge. This photo is of Phugtul as we approached it along this pathway.

Day 7 - 25 Aug 1999

The clutivated land around Purni and Phugtul.

Day 8 - 26 Aug 1999

At the end of the long day's walking from Purni to Muni we make camp just before Muni and watch the evening shadows creep up this mountainside.

Day 10 - 28 Aug 1999

We have now entered the broad Zanskar valley at Padam, and then crossed this wide valley to visit the monastery of Karsha. This is the spectacular view across the wide Zanskar Valley from the heights of Karsha monastery.

Day 10 - 28 Aug 1999

Evening views from our camp site at Thondhe, about 2 hours walk from Karsha monastery.

Day 10 - 28 Aug 1999

Evening views from our camp site at Thondhe.

Day 12 - 30 Aug 1999

A tea house at the small village of Pidmo.

Day 12 - 30 Aug 1999

The small village of Pidmo. We camped further on, at the village of Hanuma.

Day 13 - 31 Aug 1999

Spectacular scenery as we climb Purfi La. Purfi La is above a junction of two major rivers in immense gorges north of Hanuma.

Day 14 - 1 Sep 1999

We approach Hanuma La (4877m) through this stony gully. Here our mules are crossing a snow bridge that spans a gushing watercourse.

Day 14 - 1 Sep 1999

Lingshet Monastery, which we reached late in the afternoon on Day 14 after crossing Hanuma La.

Day 16 - 3 Sep 1999

Singe La (5100m) can be seen ahead in this photo. It was a long steady climb up this scree to the top of this high but broad and rounded pass.

Day 17 - 4 Sep 1999

Kendy approaches Sirsir La (4805m).

Day 17 - 4 Sep 1999

Shoga approaches Sirsir La (4805m) which can be seen straight ahead.

Day 17 - 4 Sep 1999

Beyond Sirsir La lies the village of Hunupatta, which lies somewhere below us among this heavily cultivated country.

Day 17 - 4 Sep 1999

Evening views from our camp site above Hunupatta.

Day 18 - 5 Sep 1999

Between Hunupatta and Wanla is this incredible gorge, almost impossibly steep and narrow, and the route leads straight through it. Rock towards vertically upwards on all sides.

Day 18 - 5 Sep 1999

Beyond the steep gorge it opens out into a more "normal" valley.

Day 19 - 6 Sep 1999

The end of Stage 1 is now in sight. Ahead is the monastery rown of Lamayuru, clinging to the side of a hill as many such monasteries do.

Day 20 - 7 Sep 1999

Here is Lamayuru monastery. We had a rest day here upon our arrival. Here we parted with Manzoor who travelled by road to Srinagar to have his broken arm set in hospital.

After a rest day here, Afzul and Shoga led us onto Stage 2 of the trek.