Ashley Burke, Central Asia 2009

Introduction

After my trip into the Fann Mountains I joined a World Expeditions group led by Simon Yates, our aim being to climb Peak Lenin, a 7134m peak on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

Peak Lenin is the 3rd highest mountain in the former Soviet Union and is supposedly one of the world's most accessible 7000m peaks. We pondered this claim after many hours of lurching and getting thrown around in the back of a lumbering Russian army truck, followed by days of slogging through deep snow in an effort to reach the summit. This led us to wonder how inaccessible all the other 7000m peaks in the world must be.

Nevertheless, out of our group of 8 climbers, 7 of us reached the summit of Peak Lenin on 26 July 2009. It was an exhilarating experience in a fascinating corner of the world. Peak Lenin is located in the high Pamirs, one of the most mountainous regions on Earth. Kyrgyzstan is a great country to visit, not just because of its beautiful landscapes, but because the people wear silly hats and live in yurts that leak in the rain. And where else can you get fresh watermelon on top of a glacier at 4400m?

Here are some photos of this trip. A more detailed write-up of this trip will be added to this web page in due course.

Sun 12 Jul 2009		Travel by car from Tashkent to Kyrgyz border, cross border into Kyrgyzstan and stay in the city of Osh.
Mon 13 Jul 2009		Travel by army truck to Peak Lenin base camp (3700m).
Tue 14 Jul 2009		Day at base camp (3700m).
Wed 15 Jul 2009		Portage gear to Camp 1 (4400m) and then return to base camp.
Thu 16 Jul 2009		Advance to Camp 1 (4400m) and then stay at Camp 1. Nice evening views.
Fri 17 Jul 2009		Acclimatization day at Camp 1 (4400m).
Sat 18 Jul 2009		Advance to Camp 2 (5300m) and then stay at Camp 2. Due to its position, there are no views from Camp 2.
Sun 19 Jul 2009		Acclimatization hike to 5850m above Camp 2 and then return to Camp 2.
Mon 20 Jul 2009		Return to base camp. Lots of marmots.
Tue 21 Jul 2009		Rest day at base camp.
Wed 22 Jul 2009		Yet another rest day at base camp. Birthday cake.
Thu 23 Jul 2009		Summit bid. Advance to Camp 1 (4400m).
Fri 24 Jul 2009		Summit bid. Advance to Camp 2 (5300m). Nice sunrise.
Sat 25 Jul 2009		Summit bid. Advance to Camp 3 (6200m). Nice sunset.
Sun 26 Jul 2009		SUMMIT DAY . Climb to summit of Peak Lenin (7134m) and then return to Camp 3.
Mon 27 Jul 2009		Return to Camp 1 (4400m).
Tue 28 Jul 2009		Return to base camp.
Wed 29 Jul 2009		Spare day at base camp.
Thu 30 Jul 2009		Travel by army truck from base camp to Osh.
Fri 31 Jul 2009		Spare day in Osh.
Sat 1 Aug 2009		Travel by car back to Tashkent, crossing border from Kyrgyzstan back into Uzbekistan.

	This was the truck in which we travelled from Osh to Peak Lenin Base Camp. It was a 10 hour dusty, bumpy, slow and grinding drive, cooped up in the back of this thing.
	We stopped for lunch at a roadside cafe - Kyrgyzstan style.
	Finally we arrived at Peak Lenin base camp. Peak Lenin itself is invisible behind cloud.
	This is Peak Lenin base camp and this yurt was where we went for our meals. Three hot meals per day were served in this yurt whenever we were here.
	Inside the yurt is colourful and decorated, with either food or beer or tea, or more often all three at once, always on the table. If it was raining heavily outside then it was usually raining heavily inside as well, even under the tables for some inexplicable reason.

	The first stage in our attempt on Peak Lenin was to get equipment and food from base camp closer to the mountain. So on 15 July we loaded up our packs with food, tents and gear, and carried them up to Camp 1. Then we returned to base camp that evening. In this photo we are just leaving base camp and Peak Lenin is in the background.
	En route to Camp 1 there is a place called the "onion meadow" where onion flowers grow.
	Flowers at the onion meadow.
	The route to Camp 1 crosses some steep and loose scree.
	Although Camp 1 is at 4400m on top of a glacier, it is a serviced camp with yurts and cooks that remain there throughout the climbing season, providing meals and tent accommodation for the climbers. Here supplies for Camp 1 (in this case a yurt) are being carried there by horse.
	Horses and riders making the return journey from Camp 1 to base camp.

	On 16 July we carried more gear up to Camp 1 and then remained at Camp 1. This photo shows the yurt where we ate our meals at Camp 1 and behind it is the kitchen tent where our food was prepared.
	At Camp 1 we stayed in these tents.
	Evening views from Camp 1 (4400m).
	Evening views from Camp 1 (4400m).
	Evening views from Camp 1 (4400m).
	Evening views from Camp 1 (4400m).
	Evening views from Camp 1 (4400m).