Ashley Burke, Central Asia 2009

Central Asia 2009 - The Mountains of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

Trip 1 - Fann Mountains, Tajikistan


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Evening views from Mirali Pass, 5060m, Fann Mountains

Introduction

The Fann Mountains are a knot of spectacular peaks in western Tajikistan. They are just part of a larger mountainous region known as the Zerafshan Mountains. The Fans are home to the highest peaks in the Zerafshan range with many peaks rising above 5000m. The highest, Chimtarga, is at 5489m. Prior to the breakup of the Soviet Union, the Fann Mountains were the most popular destination within the USSR for Soviet mountaineers and climbers. Now that this are lies within the independent state of Tajikistan it sees fewer visitors.

In June and early July 2009 I was the only foreign visitor to the area and with my Russian guide I spent 2 weeks trekking and climbing in this wonderful area.

Here are some photos of this trip. A more detailed write-up of this trip will be added to this web page in due course.

The trip was made possible by the "International Mountaineer Tourist Centre Vertical Alaudin", the base camp that serves people like me in the Fann Mountains. Here is the link to their web page.

Itinerary

Here is a summary of my climbing programme for the period of time that I was in the Fann Mountains. The links will take you direct to the photos.

Fri 26 Jun 2009		Train from Tashkent to Samarkand
Sat 27 Jun 2009		Car to Uzbekistan / Tajikistan border, then cross border on foot, then travel by van to Fann Mountains base camp at Vertical Alaudin.
Sun 28 Jun 2009		Acclimatization hike from base camp to Laudan Pass (3630m). Stay at Vertical Alaudin base camp.
Mon 29 Jun 2009		Trek to Advance Base Camp at Mutny Lakes (3800m).
Tue 30 Jun 2009		Climb to high camp on Zamok (4200m). Beautiful sunset.
Wed 1 Jul 2009		Climb to summit of Zamok (5070m) then return all the way to Vertical Alaudin base camp.
Thu 2 Jul 2009		Rest at base camp then trek to Advance Base Camp at Mutny Lakes (3800m).
Fri 3 Jul 2009		Climb in bad weather towards Chimtarga Pass. Camp at 4300m, below Chimtarga pass.
Sat 4 Jul 2009		Beautiful sunrise. Climb in fine but cold weather to summit of Energia (5120m) and then return to camp at 4300m. Beautiful sunset.
Sun 5 Jul 2009		Cross Chimtarga Pass (4740m), enter the Zindon valley and then climb towards Mirali Pass. Camp at around 4100m.
Mon 6 Jul 2009		Climb to Mirali Pass and thence to 5200m on Chimtarga before returning to Mirali Pass. High camp on Mirali Pass (5060m). Beautiful but hazy sunset.
Tue 7 Jul 2009		Return to Chimtarga Pass. High camp on Chimtarga Pass (4740m). Hazy sunset.
Wed 8 Jul 2009		Descend from Chimtarga Pass. Return to Mutny Lakes and then back to Vertical Alaudin base camp.
Thu 9 Jul 2009		Rest day at Vertical Alaudin base camp. Photographed flowers around base camp. Did 4 hour hike to Alaudin Pass (3860m). Late evening travel by van towards Samarkand.
Fri 10 Jul 2009		Cross Takikistan / Uzbekistan border in the middle of the night and thence by car to Samarkand.
Sat 11 Jul 2009		Travel by car to Tashkent.

Journey from Samarkand to Vertical Alaudin Base Camp

This was the vehicle in which my guides from Vertical Alaudin met me at the Tajikistan border. Journeying through the night on rough tracks and crossing rivers and streams we wound our way through the mountains, eventually reaching Vertical Alaudin base camp at around midnight.

Next morning I saw the surrounding scenery for the first time. This is Vertical Alaudin base camp and the cottage in this photo was my accommodation on the nights that I was here.

The valley in the centre of the photo was the valley we went up to explore the Fann Mountains.

Morning views around Vertical Alaudin base camp.

Trek to Mutny Lakes

	Because we were setting up an advance base camp at Mutny Lake, our climbing gear and food supplies were carried by donkey.
	En route to Mutny Lake we stop for a rest and take in the surrounding scenery.
	Here are our tents, setup at Mutny Lake.
	Evening light catches the peaks. Views from Mutny Lake.
	It is early in the summer and the previous winter was long and deep so snow still covers the ground and much of the lake itself.

Climb to Zamok High Camp

	After a night at Mutny Lakes we climbed towards Mt Zamok.
	Here is our high camp on Zamok, Altitude 4200m.
	Views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Myself at Zamok high camp.
	Views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	That night was so clear and still, I decided not to stay in the tent and instead bivvied here under the stars.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.
	Evening mountan views from Zamok high camp, 4200m.

Ascent to Summit of Zamok (5070m)

	Views to the south en route to Zamok summit.
	This spectacular outcrop of rock blocked our route to the summit, which lies to the left of this photo. We sidled across the snow slope in this photo, keeping just below the rock. It was quite steep.
	On the summit of Zamok, 5070m.
	Views from the summit of Zamok.
	View from the summit of Zamok. The peak in the centre of this photo is Energia, 5120m. We climbed this peak on 4th July. You can see the route to the summit in this photo. We climbed to the saddle to the right of the peak by following the snow slopes below and to the right of the peak, visible in this photo.
	Myself on the summit of Zamok.

Alaudin Lakes

After reaching the summit of Zamok we returned down all the way back to Vertical Alaudin base camp in the one day.

On the following day we climbed back up to Mutny Lakes, well rested after good food and a good night's sleep at base camp. As I walked past Alaudin Lakes on the way to Mutny Lakes I met these two cheerful local Tajik people. They had obviously been drinking vodka.

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Page created 24 Aug 2009, last updated 25 Aug 2009.


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