KAZAKHSTAN - The Marble Wall and Khan Tengri Traverse

17 Aug 2011 - Climb Chapaev Peak (6100m) and proceed to Khan Tengri Camp 3 (5860m)

 

All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2011. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.

 

Highlighted area shows today's climbing

Today was another amazing day. We woke to a beautiful morning and stunning scenery. We set off from Camp 2 at around 8am. It was slow and laborious climbing up the fixed ropes. The entire day was spent climbing alone and I didn't speak to anyone. I wasn't feeling too well. A spectacular knife-edge crest was crossed. Then a steep rock step had to be scaled. Long and exasperatingly hard climbing led to Chapaev Peak (6100m) which I reached in whiteout - alone. Now unroped I followed faint tracks in the snow to the saddle between Chapaev Peak and Khan Tengri. This was Camp 3 (5860m), and the tent there was already well dug in. Another cramped night. It is snowing outside.

We woke to a beautiful morning. Snowfalls during the previoud evening and night had half buried our tent.

Preparing to leave Camp 2. The summit of Khan Tengri is behind.
We have started the climbing, our tent at Camp 2 can be seen in the background. The Czech family and the other climber who shared Camp 2 with us have gone back down, we are now the only people left on Khan Tengri.
As we slowly made our way up the fixed ropes towards Camp 3, the scenery was superb. The North Inylchek glacier is below, as is our tent at Camp 2.
Danat traverses a section of level ridge between Camp 2 and Chapaev Peak.

The short section of level ridge offers stunning views.

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All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2011. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.

Page created 16 Nov 2011, last updated 7 Dec 2011.