Western European Cycling Tour

April - September 1996

 

All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2008. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.

 

Trip Diary

I kept a detailed diary during the trip and every evening of this five month cycling tour I would write of the days adventures, frustrations and of course the ever important weather. Here is a day-by-day account of the ride, with each day summarized in one line.

Day
 Date Distance Cycled Today (km) Total Distance Cycled so far (km) Activities and Highlights Accommodation that night
1
 20 Apr 1996 0 0 Arrive Rome and sight seeing in Rome. Hostel in Rome.
2
 21 Apr 1996 0 0 More Rome sight seeing and met Mum and Dad in evening. Hostel in Rome.
3
 22 Apr 1996 0 0 With Mum and Dad in Rome, met Penny. Hostel in Rome.
4
 23 Apr 1996 90 90 Cycled out of Rome en route to Assisi. Rough camp under bridge between Rieti and Terni.
5
 24 Apr 1996 98 188 Cycled north through Terni and towards Assisi. Campground south of Assisi.
6
 25 Apr 1996 30 218 Cycled to Assisi, met Penny and toured Assisi. Assisi campground.
7
 26 Apr 1996 0 218 Day in Assisi. Assisi campground.
8
 27 Apr 1996 80 298 Some wrong turns and bad traffic until I got onto quiet roads. Campground on Lago Trasimeno.
9
 28 Apr 1996 88 386 Cycled into Sienna. Met up with Penny. Sienna campground.
10
 29 Apr 1996 0 386 Day in Sienna with Penny. Sienna campground.
11
 30 Apr 1996 73 459 Rode from Sienna to Florence in very overcast weather with rain later. Met Mum, Dad and Pat and Alan. Florence campground.
12
 1 May 1996 0 459 Day in Florence celebrating Mum's and Pat's 60th birthday. Florence campground.
13
 2 May 1996 0 459 Day in Florence visiting art galleries etc. Raining. Florence campground.
14
 3 May 1996 0 459 Sightseeing in Florence, day with family in Florence. Florence campground.
15
 4 May 1996 108 567 Rode north towards Bologna. Great scenery. Campground south of Bolonga.
16
 5 May 1996 145 712 Long and tedious ride across the Po valley to Mantova, food running low and no shops open. Vacant land near Mondova, no campground found.
17
 6 May 1996 108 820 Bad traffic en route to Lago di Garda and then into mountains and to Lago D'Idro. Picturesque lake. Campgound by Lago D'Idro.
18
 7 May 1996 75 895 Continue north into mountains then to small village of Molveno. Campground by Lago di Molveno.
19
 8 May 1996 0 895 Day hike to summit of Monte Paganella from Molveno. Campground by Lago di Molveno.
20
 9 May 1996 0 895 Bad weather, stayed put in Molveno. Did a walk into the mountains but lots of rain. Campground by Lago di Molveno.
21
 10 May 1996 88 983 Lots of climbing and descending, weather quite wet, crossed Meldelpass and down to Bozen Bozen campground.
22
 11 May 1996 57 1040 Huge climb of 1500m net altitude gain to Karerpass then down to Canazei. Spectacular scenery. Canazei campground.
23
 12 May 1996 52 1092 Epic day. Very wet and cold. Lots of climbing, three high passes (Passo di Fedaia, Falzarego Pass and Valparda Pass). Two punctures, hands too cold to fix last puncture and spare tube punctured too. Forced to pull over and camp in cold weather - sleet. Rough camp beside road just past Valparda Pass.
24
 13 May 1996 15 1107 Cold wet weather again. Repaired punctures and cycled northwards. Was picked up by Austrian man who drive me to campsite at Rasun-Anterselva where I sat out the bad weather. Campground at Rasun-Anterselva
25
 14 May 1996 Not recorded ~ 1227 Better weather. Rode up spectacular single lane road to Austrian border at Stallersattel but was not permitted to cross due to an officious Austrian official. Returned to S49 and rode east into Austria and on to Lienz. Lienz campground.
26
 15 May 1996 91 1318 Incredible scenery and very challenging. Climbed three passes including the Grossglockner pass at 2505m. Over 2000m of vertical climbing today. Snow 10 feet deep either side of the road. Campground at Zell am See.
27
 16 May 1996 103 1421 More big hills. Rode to Saalfelden then over pass to Bischofshofen then north towards Salzburg. Better weather. Campground to south of Salzburg.
28
 17 May 1996 11 1432 Rode into Salzburg and enjoyed this wonderful city and met people and visited the beer halls. Salzburg - International Youth Hostel.
29
 18 May 1996 0 1432 Rest day in Salzburg. New rear tyre for bike. Salzburg - International Youth Hostel.
30
 19 May 1996 96 1528 Rode west into Germany through the Bavarian alps, gentler than the Austrian Alps. Campground south of Rosenheim.
31
 20 May 1996 122 1650 Dismal weather. Rode to Munich in pouring rain. Couldn't stop for lunch - too cold and wet. Had trouble finding campsite in Munich. Thalkirchen campground, Munich.
32
 21 May 1996 0 1650 Day in Munich, sightseeing. Organ recital at Frauenkirche. To the Hofbräuhaus beer hall and too much drinking in evening. Thalkirchen campground, Munich.
33
 22 May 1996 0 0 Hangover. Thalkirchen campground, Munich.
34
 23 May 1996 90 1740 Bad weather in morning so went to museum. Left camp site at 2pm and rode westwards from Munich on minor roads through Bavarian countryside to near Augsburg. Campsite near Augsberg.
35
 24 May 1996 98 1838 Another good day on minor roads through the Bavarian countryside, travelling westwards. Campsite south of Ulm.
36
 25 May 1996 122 1960 Continued westwards, reaching the Danube Valley east of Sigmaringen , then followed the Danube upstream on cycleways in continuous rain to a castle that had been turned into a Youth Hostel. Youth Hostel in castle above Danube River.
37
 26 May 1996 70 2030 Continued up the Danube on cycleways in overcast weather to Donaueschingen. Campsite 3km east of Donaueschingen.
38
 27 May 1996 57 2087 Followed the Breg river upstream into the Black Forest. Terrible weather, day shortened by cold rain. Campsite in Simonswald.
39
 28 May 1996 108 2195 Scenic riding in better weather northwards through the Scwartzwald to Freudenstadt and continued north from there. Campsite at Enzklösterle.
40
 29 May 1996 117 2312 Fine weather at last and rode nortwards, picking minor roads to dodge large towns until I reached the Neckar River. Campsite by Neckar river watching the barges go by.
41
 30 May 1996 140 2452 Visited Heidelburg Castle then rode through hilly country north from there then down to Pfungstadt and finally reaching the junction of the Rhine and Main Rivers. Campsite at junction of Rhine and Main Rivers.
42
 31 May 1996 105 2557 Fine warm day. Rode down Rhine River to Koblenz. Ehrenbreitsen Youth Hostel, Koblenz.
43
 1 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 2650 Some rain today. Cycled up the Mosel valley, stopping for tour of Burg Eltz castle. At Cochem headed west away from Mosel river. Campsite near small village of Gillenfeld.
44
 2 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 2700 Short day due to morning rain and not wanting to cross into Belgium late on a Sunday. Rode through Daun then on towards Belgian border. Campsite near Stadtkyll.
45
 3 Jun 1996 140 2840 Good weather. Crossed into Belgium and to Malmedy. Continued west through Belgian countryside to Meuse River. Campsite near Huy on the Meuse River.
46
 4 Jun 1996 126 2966 Good weather. Some nice countryside but also some horrid industrial countryside. Kept prevailing westward, south of Brussells. Campsite near Geraadsbergen.
47
 5 Jun 1996 95 3061 Good weather. Bad traffic and pollution. Got to Bruge at around 4pm and wandered around this beautiful city and went out in the evening. Bruno's passage hotel, Bruge.
48
 6 Jun 1996 97 3158 Toured Bruge in morning then set off on bike paths, following canals into Holland. Headed north along the coast following dykes. Campsite near Ouddorp, southwest of Rotterdam.
49
 7 Jun 1996 112 3270 Good weather. Slow going and some wrong turns due to following bike paths and canals instead of roads. Lovely Dutch countryside. Campsite at Roelofarendsveen, southwest of Amsterdam.
50
 8 Jun 1996 33 3303 Rode into Amsterdam and visited Van Gough Museum. Did not take a liking to Amsterdam nor the hostel I was in. Nelly's Inn, central Amsterdam.
51
 9 Jun 1996 106 3409 Overcast and drizzle. Hated Amsterdam so rode out of it as soon as I could. Cycled east into forested countryside. Small friendly campsite near Gortel.
52
 10 Jun 1996 96 3505 Fine weather. Rode northeast through Dutch countryside on minor roads. Campsite at Schoonebeek.
53
 11 Jun 1996 130 3635 Fine weather. Continued northeast into Germany. Uninspiring scenery. Went throught Meppen, Friesoythe, Bad Zwischenahn. Campsite at Bad Zwischenahn.
54
 12 Jun 1996 142 3777 Good progress northeast but very dull scenery. Passed north of Bremen (near Brake) and eventually reached the Elbe River. Campsite on the Elbe at Krautsand (opposite Glückstadt).
55
 13 Jun 1996 97 3874 Crossed Elbe River on ferry and battled fierce headwinds northeast. Very uninteresting countryside. Campsite on Eider River.
56
 14 Jun 1996 93 3967 Headed northwards battling strong headwind. Eventually crossed into Denmark. Campsite at Tønder.
57
 15 Jun 1996 107 4074 Continued northwards, battling headwind, headed up the western side of the Jutland peninsula. Campsite at Grindsted.
58
 16 Jun 1996 102 4176 Wind has dropped. Scenery is finally a bit more interesting. Rode north through central Jutland. Campsite at Ans.
59
 17 Jun 1996 107 4283 Rode north with strong tailwind to Aalborg. Some nice countryside. Campsite at Aalborg.
60
 18 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 4383 Visited a viking burial ground. Rode to Frederikshavn and got ferry to Gothenburg and then eventually found a campground, arriving late. Campsite at Gothenburg.
61
 19 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 4400 Day in Gothenburg. Decided to visit family friends in Stockholm in time for midsummer's night and this would mean getting a train from Gothenburg to Stockholm. Organised bike to go on train separately from me. Campsite at Gothenburg.
62
 20 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 4420 Train to Stockholm then afternoon spent with Gun and Elaine Gun's unit, Stockholm.
63
 21 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 4440 Day in Stockholm. Enjoyed traditional midsummer night festivities with Gun's family. Gun's unit, Stockholm.
64
 22 Jun 1996 Not recorded ~ 4450 Day in Stockholm sighseeing with Marika's family. Gun's unit, Stockholm.
65
 23 Jun 1996 0 ~ 4450 Ferry ride on Stockholm harbour with Marika's family to Vaxholm. Gun's unit, Stockholm.
66
 24 Jun 1996 132 4582 Left Stockholm riding northwest into direct headwind. Nice scenery. Campsite near Sala.
67
 25 Jun 1996 134 4716 Excellent weather and light headwind. Nice scenery and towns. Continued northwest through Falun. Campsite past Falun.
68
 26 Jun 1996 102 4818 Headed north on minor road with minimal traffic. Sparsely populated, only small villages. Rough camp outside village of Furudal.
69
 27 Jun 1996 107 4925 Continued north in uninteresting contryside - endless pine forest. Rain set in and weather worsened. Small campsite outside Ytterhogdal.
70
 28 Jun 1996 114 5039 Overcast, no rain. Cold morning. Countryside becoming more arctic in appearance. Snow visible. Campsite southwest of Östersund.
71
 29 Jun 1996 102 5141 Overcast. Rode into Östersund then 60km north from there. Rough camp off Road 339, north of Östersund.
72
 30 Jun 1996 100 5241 Rain. Road 339 became dirt and bike got very muddy. Back onto sealed road after Strömsund. Rough camp northeast of Strömsund.
73
 1 Jul 1996 100 5341 Overcast, not much rain. Kept going north on road 45. Campsite near Vilhelmina.
74
 2 Jul 1996 111 5452 Rain. Kept going north on road 45. Passed through dtown of Storuman. Rough camp, used previously.
75
 3 Jul 1996 121 5573 Heavily overcast, not much rain. Still on road 45, passed through Arvidsjaur. Rough camp north of Arvidsjaur.
76
 4 Jul 1996 136 5709 No rain, some sunny breaks. Crossed arctic circle. Reindeer on road. Terrible mosqitos. Rough camp near Jokkmokk.
77
 5 Jul 1996 100 5809 Weather ok at first but deteriorated, rain later in the day. Scenery becoming more arctic. Campsite at Gällivare.
78
 6 Jul 1996 119 5928 Clearing weather after overnight rain. Downpour of rain later. Met Dutch couple in campervan. Rough camp north of Vittangi.
79
 7 Jul 1996 102 6030 Cold headwind and rain, heavy at times. Crossed border into Finland. Change of scenery from forest to tundra. Rough camp near river in northern Finland.
80
 8 Jul 1996 130 6160 Cold rain. Undulating tundra. Bad mosquitos. Crossed into Norway via cold and snowy pass. Observed cracks in rear rim of bike. Rough camp by creek in a picnic area.
81
 9 Jul 1996 113 6273 Cold headwind and 2 hours of rain. Cycled north along the Norwegian coastline. Rough camp up hill behind some houses.
82
 10 Jul 1996 107 6380 Fine day at last, but more rain in afternoon. Spectacular scenery along the coastline of the Norwegian arctic. Great views from Gildetn pass. Belgian man gave me a beer he was so impressed with my ride. Campsite on Langfjorden.
83
 11 Jul 1996 99 6479 Overcast. Continued around coast to Alta. Met a Polish man who gave me tea and food. Campsite 18km past Alta.
84
 12 Jul 1996 92 6571 Fine day, rain in evening. Superb riding across arctic tundra landscape towards Nordkapp. Met Danish couple. Snow all around. Campsite at Olderfjorden.
85
 13 Jul 1996 134 6705 Met with other riders for ride to Nordkapp. Mindblowing arctic scenery, Snowdrifts down to sea level. Nice weather during day. Ferry across to Honningsvåg. Rode to Nordkapp at night in midnight sun. Became cold, damp and bleak. Reached Nordkapp, northernmost point in Europe. Campsite north of Honningsvåg.
86
 14 Jul 1996 0 6705 Rest day. Very wet weather. First rest day in 3 weeks. Campsite north of Honningsvåg.
87
 15 Jul 1996 Not recorded ~ 6715 Long ferry journey from Honningsvåg to Tromsö in poor weather, arriving in Tromsö late at night. Bike urgently needs repair - rear rim needs replacing. Dossed out near some rubbish bins at Tromsö ferry wharf.
88
 16 Jul 1996 70 6862 Rear bike rim was replaced at bike shop in Tromsö. After bike was repaired, rode south through excellent scenery in cloudy weather. Campsite at Nordkjosbotn.
89
 17 Jul 1996 112 6975 Unsettled weather. Some rain. Followed E6 road southeast in increasing traffic, scenery interesting. Rough camp on pass.
90
 18 Jul 1996 117 7094 Unsettled weather. Rain. Left E6 heading westwards towards Lofoten islands. Rough camp on the first and largest of the Lofoten islands, south of Harstad.
91
 19 Jul 1996 105 7200 Dismal weather. Rain. Continued along E10 westwards through the Lofoten islands. Campsite at Stokmarknes.
92
 20 Jul 1996 94 7297 Fine at first, variable weather overall. Some rain. Superb scenery in Lofoten islands, continuing west on E10. 800m tunnel. Windy camp. Rough camp towards the outer archipelago.
93
 21 Jul 1996 101 7398 Strong wind at first, relatively fine day, no rain while riding, rain at night. Scenically one of the best days yet, outstanding rugged mountains rising out of the sea - outer Lofoten islands. Long tunnel under the sea. Rough camp on outermost Lofoten island.
94
 22 Jul 1996 37 7435 My 30th birthday. Beautiful villages on outermost island. Did a walk into mountains on spectacular walking track. Ferry from Å to Bodö. Rough camp late outside Bodö after ferry arrived.
95
 23 Jul 1996 90 7526 No rain after 11am. Hazy conditions. Beautiful fjord scenery. Hilly riding. Rough camp high up in national park.
96
 24 Jul 1996 109 7636 Hazy and overcast. A little rain. Got onto E6 which headed south, not as scenic as other roads. Crossed arctic circle. Picnic area by road and river on E6.
97
 25 Jul 1996 111 7748 Some rain. Heavily overcast. Passed through Mo i Rana. 1km tunnel. Improving scenery once E6 reached the coast. Campsite on E6.
98
 26 Jul 1996 111 7860 First day for a month that was fine until 4pm. Dismal weather after 5pm with more rain. Beautiful scenery. Left E6 at Mosjöen and took road to Atlantic coast. Stunning road hewn into side of fjord. Some unlit tunnels. Campsite southeast of Sandnessjöen.
99
 27 Jul 1996 107 7968 Reasonable weather. Rode south along coast. Two ferry rides to cross the outlets of fjords. Campsite at Vennesund.
100
 28 Jul 1996 48 8017 Rain. Another ferry crossing of a fjord. Put tent up at lunchtime to get out of rain. Rode off again at 5pm for 2 hours. Rough camp south of Foldereid.
101
 29 Jul 1996 110 8128 Rain. Bike beginning to rust after weeks of being wet. Beginning to despair of the bad weather. Kept riding south. Rough camp south of Namsos.
102
 30 Jul 1996 112 8241 Heavily overcast, morning drizzle. Scenic riding. Took road 715 which was a more minor road closer to the coastline. No traffic and spectacular scenery. Rogh camp in wild forest.
103
 31 Jul 1996 132 8373 Fine day! Kept on minor roads with almost no traffic following coast south. Now on road 710. At end of the day it was raining again! Campsite at Orkanger (southwest of Trondheim).
104
 1 Aug 1996 146 8521 Weather started fine, then heavy rain, then fine again, then evening downpour. Took road 71 then 65 and went through town of Skei. Variable road quality and scenery. Campsite south of Skei.
105
 2 Aug 1996 91 8613 Dismal weather but ok at first. Ferry across fjord. Rode through Sunndalsöra and then circuitous coastal road. Rough camp on rain soaked pass.
106
 3 Aug 1996 92 8706 Poor weather. Rode through Andalsnes then took spectacular and steep Trollstigen road to high pass. High camp before Trollstigen pass.
107
 4 Aug 1996 76 8781 Poor weather, more rain. Crossed Trollstigen pass. Ferry trip across Norddalsfjorden. Long steep riding. Spectacular scenery near Geiranger. Lots of tourist buses. High camp after Geiranger.
108
 5 Aug 1996 141 8923 Glorious weather! Started early to take advantage of fine weather. Rode to Lom then took rode 55 for long climb to high plateau. High camp (1400m) among glaciated country.
109
 6 Aug 1996 94 9019 Fine day! Spectacular and varied scenery. Alpine scenery followed by steep descent to Lustrafjorden. Steep climb. Stunning ferry trip down fjords to Gudvangen. Collosal scenery at campsite and waterfalls which have to be seen to be believed! Best day yet. Spectacular campsite at Gudvangen.
110
 7 Aug 1996 108 9128 Fine day! Followed E16. Took minor road to avoid tunnels. Almost impossibly steep climb. Took more minor roads of E16 to avoid long tunnels. Rough camp by road just past Dale.
111
 8 Aug 1996 75 9203 Good weather. Harrowing excitement avoiding tunnels on E16. To avoid a 2.7km deep tunnel I trekked cross country and followed dark and disused tunnel. Reached Bergen. Got letters at Poste Restante. Campsite near Bergen.
112
 9 Aug 1996 0 ~ 9220 First 0km day for 25 days. Got long overnight ship ride from Bergen to Newcastle in England. On ship on North Sea.
113
 10 Aug 1996 Not recorded 9254 Arrived Newcastle in pouring rain. English language and friendly people at last. Spent time in Newcastle shopping then rode to Ashington. Campsite near Ashington.
114
 11 Aug 1996 73 9328 Morpeth, west then southwest to Hadrians Wall. Farmhouse camping near Hardians Wall.
115
 12 Aug 1996 125 9454 Beautiful weather. Haltwistle then hilly picturesque roads. Circuitous route around Kielder forest. Rough camp near Harwood Forest.
116
 13 Aug 1996 98 9552 Passable weather. Rode into Alnwick. Very hilly. Rode north to Berwick. Campsite on coast near Berwick.
117
 14 Aug 1996 96 9649 Fine day. Crossed into Scotland. Crossed the Lammermuir Hills and reached Edinburgh. Campsite on outskirts of Edinburgh.
118
 15 Aug 1996 0 9649 Tourism in Edinburgh. No cycling today. Fine weather.  
119
 16 Aug 1996 119 9769 Heavy traffic riding out of Edinburgh and across Forth Bridge to Dunfermline. Much better through Ochil Hills then Crieff then lovely cycling through Glen Almond. Campsite on Strath Tay (Dunkald).
120
 17 Aug 1996 105 9875 Overcast. No rain.Rode to Blairgowrie then north up to pass at Devils Elbow. Long fast downhill run to Braemar Castle. Passed Balmoral Castle, rode on to Ballater. Campsite at Ballater.
121
 18 Aug 1996 112 9989 Two high passes heading northwest from Ballater including highest pass in Scotland. Almermethy Forest. Headed into Glenmore Forest Park then went for walk into Cairngorn Mountains. Campsite in Glenmore Forest Park.
122
 19 Aug 1996 103 10093 Overcast and windy, no rain. Rode into Inverness via circuitous route that included riding along much of Loch Ness. Very minor farm roads through hills. Campsite in sportsfield in Inverness.
123
 20 Aug 1996 83 10177 Rain. Went into Inverness then returned to campsite. Left camp after lunch. Rode through Dingwall. Kept to minor rodes. Misty. Campsite at Invershin farm.
124
 21 Aug 1996 114 10293 Overcast and drizzle. Reached west coast of Scotland and enjoyed superb scenery on minor road around Loch Assynt and on through Lochinver. Incredible coastal scenery. Winding roads. Campsite north of Ullapool.
125
 22 Aug 1996 98 10391 Ok weather. Excellent scenery riding around coast to Gairloch. Campsite at Gairloch.
126
 23 Aug 1996 120 10513 Mostly fine weather. Superb scenery, rode around Loch Maree and then around the west coast until near the Isle of Skye. Exceptional mountain scenery all day. Cheap campsite on Loch Alsh.
127
 24 Aug 1996 92 10605 Fine weather and very hilly riding. Rode onto Isle of Skye and did a very hilly loop road. Stunning scenery. Ferry back to mainland at Mallaig. Rode south on very hilly and winding road. Rough camp beside road near Loch Ailort.
128
 25 Aug 1996 72 10677 Continuous rain. Rode south around coast to Loch Sunart then east, Ferry across Corran Narrows then to nearby campsite. Campsite south of Fort William.
129
 26 Aug 1996 121 10800 unsettled weather, rain heavy at times. Rode flat outaround coastline, traffic bad, took minor roads where possible. Got to Inverary and reached campsite in heavy rain where the warden let me in for free. Campsite southeast of Inverary.
130
 27 Aug 1996 106 10907 Unsettled weather. Rode towards Glasgow taking minor roads wherever possible. Gear cable broke. Ferry from Sunoon to Gourock. Took minor roads keeping to the west of Glasgow. Quiet unmanned campsite in countryside west of Glasgow.
131
 28 Aug 1996 122 11030 Headed steadily south through gentle farming country. Nothing special today. Overcast but not raining. Campsite west of Dumfries.
132
 29 Aug 1996 107 11138 Nothing noteworthy scenery wise. Rode through Dumfries then eastwards into Carlisle. Caravan park by golf course south of Carlisle.
133
 30 Aug 1996 76 11215 Rode through hilly country into Keswick in the Lakes District. Agonizingly steep climb up Honister Pass. Went for a walk from the pass. Rode to Buttermere then back over another very steep pass into Keswick again. Busy campsite in Keswick.
134
 31 Aug 1996 45 11261 Day trip in Lakes District. Rode over Whinlatter Pass then back up to Honister Pass. Went for walk to climb Green Gable, Great Gable and Scafell Pike. Returned to bike and rode back to Keswick. Exhausted by end of this very long day. Busy campsite in Keswick.
135
 1 Sep 1996 67 11329 Heavy cloud, headwind and rain. Took minor roads in a loop that took me around the western side of the Cumbrian mountains, eventually circling to the south. Campsite on west side of Hardknott Pass.
136
 2 Sep 1996 73 11403 No rain but cloudy and misty. By now I'm tired. Three hard passes today. Unbelievably steep climb up Hardknot Pass. Steepest road so far on entire European tour. Wrynose Pass next. Windermere Ferry. Headed north from Kirkstone over Kirkstone Pass. Campsite on Ullswater.
137
 3 Sep 1996 81 11486 Hazy and overcast. More tiring hills. Rode into Penrith. Took minor roads southeast from Penrith. Rode through Kirkby Stephen and into Yorkshire Dales. More steep hills. Campsite near Hawes.
138
 4 Sep 1996 82 11570 Many steep ups and downs. Rode through Skipton, incredibly hilly after there. Quiet campsite on Heponstall Moor.
139
 5 Sep 1996 93 11664 Fine day but poor riding in heavy traffic through urban sprawl. Took a wrong turn which meant my route south was too close to Manchester. Rode through to Buxton. Campsite just out of Buxton.
140
 6 Sep 1996 79 11743 Rode southwest, still with fairly bad traffic and not particularly interesting countryside. Took minor roads to bypass major towns. Camped on nice lady's lawn outside Market Drayton.
141
 7 Sep 1996 102 11846 Fine but hazy. Rode through Wem then Ellesmere for lunch. Entered Wales where the countryside was nicer and hillier. Caravan park east of Bala.
142
 8 Sep 1996 73 11921 Nice scenery riding west from Bala towards Snowdon. Followed Road B4391 then A4085, pleasant cycling. Campsite at Llanberis off A4086.
143
 9 Sep 1996 36 11958 Perfect weather. Left bike and climbed Mt Snowdon on foot. Rode to Betws-y-Coed. Minor collision with motorist causing rear wheel to be slightly warped. Was partially fixed at local bike shop. Campsite a few km east of Betws-y-Coed.
144
 10 Sep 1996 101 12061 Rode south and into Bala for the second time. Continued south on minor roads. Nice riding through Wales on very minor roads. Some very hilly riding. Campsite on River Severn near Llanidldes.
145
 11 Sep 1996 112 12176 Fine weather, another good day.Insanely hilly. Reached Hay-on-Wye which was a fascinating town. Rode into Hereford. Went to pub in Hereford. Campsite on River Wye past Hereford.
146
 12 Sep 1996 99 12275 Weather still ok. Rode steadily eastwards into the Cotswolds. Kept to minor roads away from towns. Rode through Stow-on-the-Wold then east from there. Campsite south of Chipping Norton.
147
 13 Sep 1996 45 12321 Lovely weather but colder. Rode into Oxford and spent the rest of the day in Oxford seeing the sights. Campsite in Oxford.
148
 14 Sep 1996 14 12336 Day in Oxford. First day for more than a month where I stayed at the same place 2 nights running. Toured Oxford. Visited Ruth Herbert, an old family friend. Perfect weather. Campsite in Oxford.
149
 15 Sep 1996 73 12411 Rode to Stoke Poges on outskirts of London and visited family friends, the Shersbys. Perfect weather. Shersbys house, Stoke Poges.
150
 16 Sep 1996 34 12446 Another day of perfect weather. Rode to Thames Ditton to visit other family friends, June and George. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
151
 17 Sep 1996 0 12446 Touring London and visited Nick June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
152
 18 Sep 1996 0 12446 No action today. Cleaned and dismantled bike, wrote letters and prepared for departure to Sydney. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
153
 19 Sep 1996 0 12446 Visited Hampton Court. Visited another family friend, Val Butler in the evening. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
154
 20 Sep 1996 0 12446 Touring London and visited friends in the evening. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
155
 21 Sep 1996 0 12446 Quiet day. Went out to a pub in Hampshire with June and George. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
156
 22 Sep 1996 0 12446 Quiet day. Went to Windsot with June and George. June and George's house, Thames Ditton.
157
 23 Sep 1996 0 12446 Flew from Heathrow to Rome. Stowed bike at Rome airport. Went into Rome and found place to stay. Pensione in Rome.
158
 24 Sep 1996 0 12446 Went back to Rome airport and flew to Sydney  

Total distance cycled in the trip: 12446km

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Web page created 9 Feb 2008, last updated 9 Feb 2008.

All content copyright © Ashley Burke 2008. Not to be copied, duplicated or used for any purpose without permission.